Lightkeeper’s family home transformed into coastal accommodation

Gwen McDonald’s childhood was spent chasing the glow of lighthouse beacons from the Catlins to Cape Reinga. Gwen’s family followed her father Bill Kemp, a renowned lightkeeper, to far flung destinations, including the splendid isolation of Waipapa Point and the vast remoteness of Baring Head/Ōrua-Pouanui. 

Gwen was around 11 years old when she moved to the Baring Head lighthouse complex with her five siblings.

Built in 1935, the heritage-listed lighthouse complex now owned by Greater Wellington remains one of the most accessible and complete in Aotearoa, with two lightkeeper cottages on site. Recently restored by Greater Wellington, the two cottages have become unique coastal accommodation, offering weekends away on what feels like the edge of the world. 

The lightkeeper’s daughter was the first to spend the night up at the restored lighthouse complex. When asked about her stay, there was one word that came to mind.

“Spectacular,” Gwen says. “Absolutely spectacular.”

It’s easy to imagine drawing back the curtain to see a lighthouse framed by an electric sunrise, in what Gwen describes as “a photographer’s dream”.

Gwen sits at the kitchen table with her husband, and lifelong friend Claire, who also grew up on the exposed coastline. The house she grew up in now is bathed in retro glory, surrounded by warm yellow tones and charming mid-century furniture. 

The exposed coastline is known for strong winds. They comment on the breezy stroll between the car park and cottage, but as the front door closes, the wind falls away. 

“You can feel the strength of the house,” says Gwen. “When you’re in here, the wind means nothing.”

They talk about the wind like an old friend. Gwen and Claire recall their “flying lessons” on the edge of the cliff, arms outstretched as they waited for a gust to lift them from the brittle grass.

“I used to have dreams about it. I thought I was a bird.”

The flying lessons, horse rides across undulating hills and stellar sunsets form halcyon memories that Gwen looks forward to sharing with her grandchildren during weekends away at the restored cottage.

Nestled between the two lightkeeper’s cottages is a small museum, home to some of her parents’ nautical belongings and where visitors can learn more about what makes the area so special.

“They were lighthouse people,” she says. “We are all lighthouse people who love lighthouses. People like us exist all over the world.” 

Gwen featured in the 2008 documentary Guardians of the Light, which interviewed the lighthouse people who cared for the most remote parts of New Zealand’s coast. In the past, many lighthouse complexes were set alight to avoid the cost of upkeep; ash claimed by the tides of history. 

When Gwen watched the film with her mother, Kitty Kemp, she remembers tears falling on her mother’s cheeks. 

“My parents felt so strongly that this place should be preserved, and we are proud that it has become a destination for anyone who wants to experience what life was like up here.” 

Another key character in the area’s story is Colin Ryder, who was paramount in the fight to restore the complex and hold on to the historic buildings. Sadly, Colin died before seeing how his passion would be remembered.

“The work they’ve done to restore the landscape is excellent,” Gwen says. She attributes the “beautiful” restoration to the dedication of the lighthouse people who feel connected to the golden headland.

Many hands help care for the lighthouse complex, including the Friends of Baring Head charitable trust and Taranaki Whānui ki Te Upoko o Te Ika.

While resident lightkeepers are a thing of the past, the Baring Head/Ōrua-Pouanui lighthouse continues to safely guide boats in and out of Te Whāngangui-a-Tara, Wellington Harbour. 

“You feel it, how spectacular and special this place is. You’ll just have to book a stay and experience it first-hand.”

Bookings to stay in this historic cottage can be made on Airbnb.